Friday, 5 June 2009

JEROEN VAN TUYL'S URBAN WARRIOR

My recent article in Dazed Digital about dutch designer Jeroen Van Tuyl...
In his 9th year and with an anthology of collections under his belt, Rotterdam based Jeroen Van Tuyl has blurred his usual architectural approach to menswear fashion in his SS09 and more recently AW09 collections for a more melodious and romantic course. A rookie in the ranks of designers showing at Paris fashion week, Van Tuyl has forged a steady rise to his current status, beginning at fashion fairs, then showroom appointments and finally a catwalk debut at Paris fashion week last season. Mirroring some of the unshakable big guns of the fashion industry, he has released his own sneaker collection and has furniture and shoe collaborations on the horizon.

Familiar for his use of classic fabrics mixed with modern tailoring, his more recent collections have shown a break from his usual rigid and architectural influences into a more softer and fluid style. The geometric and sharp angle style from the first collection are still somewhat recognisable in this  most recent collections showing a manly silhouette which one could describe as 'urban warrior', yet the detail and craftsmanship reveal a more sensitive side.
 
Celia Loves: What inspires your sagacious style of menswear design? 
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I like experimenting with the pattern construction, fit, fabric and making. I find my inspiration in art, for example futurism, music, architecture, people on the street.
 
CL: Your more recent collections have taken a more romantic course, what was your inspiration and ideas behind this?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I was inspired by the Bengal poet Rabindranth Tagore (SS09); I liked his way of seeing a more harmonic connection between the west and the east in terms of cultures, religions and philosophies.
CL: What was the response to your recent show at Paris?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: It was a tough job to put the collection together in such a short time, but I enjoyed it when it was done and people liked it! I really liked the show venue, it was an old factory old fashioned elevators.
CL: How do you find designing in Rotterdam? Are you inspired by things around you or do you use other cities as inspiration?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I like the dynamic of Rotterdam, we have about 170 nationalities, which give a lot of different influences. Besides this, the architecture is great and there are more great buildings being built all the time. This attracts a lot of creative people, which is great.
 
CL: What would be your specific kind of guy who you target to buy and wear your clothes?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: It is for a guy who has a great sense and appreciation for fabrics and a good eye for details who likes timeless garments; it is for a guy who is always ready for a new challenge.

CL: Do you have any ideas in mind for upcoming collaborations?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I am collaborating with a Rotterdam based architect and currently we are researching to define a new kind of furniture. As well as that, I am also doing a collaboration with a Dutch shoe brand QUICK,  to be called Q by Jeroen van Tuyl.

 CL
: Have you had a favourite collection to work on so far? And why?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I really like the Tagore S/S 2009 collection because of it’s fluidness and softness which worked very well for me.
 
CL: I noticed a few jewellery pieces in the ss09. Is there a jewellery range coming up for your brand?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: We made this summer flower chain at my studio. For the A/W 09/10 I collaborated with French jewellery designer Romuald Lamy and we are going to continue working together.

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