Fashion Mozzie Bait in Milan- Day 1

Greetings from Milan, or as they say in Milan: Ciao Bella's. We got of our very quick and relatively stress free flight at Malpensa Airport yesterday and were immediately hit by the wall of heat and humidity. It is so warm out here it is ridiculous, but ridiculous good... I think I packet to many jeans and not enough shorts and skirts (Not counting my 2 leather skirts I packed for obvious reasons- slight sweat + leather= sticky).
Last season the weather was the total opposite: Snow, sleet and rain everyday. Things are looking up. After a short trudge to find out hotel our Milan fashion week could truly begin. Here are a few photos from last night...

AMAZING or what? A mini triple pack of Prosecco*! Perfect for the parched and tired Buckstyke trio.
*Or as the Buckstyle team refer to it... Prosexio

The biggest pizza you have ever seen, i am not joking, Steve and Elliott ordered one each and they were approximately 50cm wide each. I settled with calamari and prawns...

The most ornate taps i have ever seen in a restaurant.

Steve, Elliott and i opening out huge stack of invites on arrival at our hotel. The hats are not a brave move in moving fashion forward (or backward), they are the personalised invites from Dsquared. Cute huh?

In the picture above you can not see the HUGE mozzie bites i have encountered on my body. I feel like mozzie bait! Fashionable and stylish mozzie bait! Great! Right i am off to the Burberry Show now, think we have an interview with Christopher Bailey.... Exciting! Watch this space...

Ps- I didnt mention the crazy monsoon style weather we experienced last night, it started raining all of a sudden and i meant really really raining! Huge droplets and the thunder and lightening and more rain. I did feel at that point, that 'that' Carolyn Massey cape would have come in more than handy...

My Milan and Paris dream wardrobe...

Arghhh! So, I woke up this morning with a smile on my face. I am off to Milan and Paris tomorrow! Whoo yay! Boo Yaw! It’s my second season flying out there and covering the menswear fashion shows for Buckstyle, and I am still as excited as I was last season (I seem to forget the trudging around, and non-stop work). It will be fun to get out of London, but don't be fooled. It will not be a holiday of drinking cocktails, rubbing shoulders with the fashion glitterati and partying till 4... Nope, we are not having a repeat of last season (or are we...)*cheeky smile*

BUT...it has now dawned on me, with less that 24 hours to go, what am I wearing? I am sitting here with dread at facing my actual wardrobe, but toying with reality. This is my fantasy Milan and Paris wardrobe...

Cotton hooded sweatshirt jacket, £75, by Adidas by Stella McCartney at www.net-a-porter.com
Strap sandal, £145, by Acne

Lulu Guinness shell stitching orange "Pollyanna" bag£250 Sophia Kokosolaki bangle, £481 ,Available from Matches,

Loewe Calle bag, £780, Available from Selfridges and Harrods

Sunglasses by RayBan, ClubMaster £108

Balenciaga sandals in black suede, £820

Loewe black open toe court shoe with gold rope heel,£665 Available from Selfridges and Harrods

Gold & crystal bracelet, £299, by Mawi at www.farfetch.com
Pink shorts, £100, by Acne (www.acnestudios.com)

D&G navy and white ‘Jackie ‘strap sandals, £480

Gucci fringed platform wedges, £440 Blue dress, £685, by Preen at www.net-a-porter.com
Oversized vest, £85, by Sass & Bide aw www.bunnyhug.co.uk

I could literally live in all of that and more....
Right, enough of the dreaming! I need to get packing! Wish me Bon Voyage readers, i will be blogging and Twittering while in Milan and Paris. Catch me here or on Twitter, i will also be tweeting on Buckstyle's Twitter

Kisses!

NEWSFLASH: Jimmy Choo for H&M Autumn 2009

Have you heard?? H&M have announced their next designer collaboration due to hit shops in November. Jimmy Choo! Tamara Mellon launched Jimmy Choo aka the red carpet shoe, in 1996 after partnering with East London shoe designer Jimmy Choo.
All very exciting, but I have questioned the integrity of some of the collaborations in the past. In the beginning the H&M collaboration was something for me to get excited about, something huge and illustrious, something I would be pandering to attend and try and stuff my shopping basket full of designer wares. I will admit that I was in-store on the first day of the Stella Mc Cartney collaboration, admittedly; I wasn't one of those die-hard maniacs queuing outside from an ungodly hour. I bought a few bits and bobs, but the experience left me feeling stressed. Seeing grown women and men fighting to get clothes of rails was almost enough to push me over the edge. The Victor and Rolf event was another one that tantilised my fashion taste buds. But I did get slightly confused at the Kylie and the Madonna additions to the collaboration history. The point I felt at the beginning was to bring designer labels to the masses and on the high street so that you could own a garment that you felt came form these prestigious names in fashion. The Kylie and Madonna ranges (as much as I love their music) left me feeling cold. It felt less designer clobber, more fan merchandise. I am not putting their designing skills to question (much), but I didn’t really see the point (without being so blunt) of it. I had no interest at all in it.



All negativity aside and out of the way, the images I got through of the upcoming collaboration yesterday has really tickled my me, I for one am intrigued and can't wait to see more of the designs. Maybe you will find me camping outside at 5am on Oxford Street after all. The shoes look brilliant, and I am guessing at the standard H&M collab price, will be a snip at under £100 hopefully! The traditionally shoe brand will be venturing out into menswear for the first time and the collection will include shoes, clothes, bags and accessories...!

Christopher Kane Resort collection

This is the most recent Christopher Kane collection that i came across last week. I was at the Christopher Kane press office and was perusing his PR agency's rails for menswear clothes that i was calling in for my recently executed video shoot (watch this space for more info), again one of the many reasons for my slack blog posting in the last week (sorry again). Kane's 2010 resort collection is a range of delicate dresses and skirts, t-shirts and soft leather jackets predominantly with the images of large colourful bomb clouds in graphic print. Now the last time that Kane did an amazing graphic print, i couldnt sleep for days and day, just thinking of cunning ways of getting hold of the t-shirts, they were to die for. Kane says about his collection:

"I wanted clean, sexy shapes that are quite easy to wear," he said.

At first you might be OK in mistaking it for a pretty floral print, like the som many that we have seen recently, but on closer inspection the graphic plume of clouds billowing against a contrasting colour sky is breathtaking. Kane said:

"I wanted something natural, but I'm so fed up with florals," he explained in his London studio. "And then I came across these images of nuclear test explosions from the fifties to the seventies on the Internet. I like the crazy-bright chemical colors. The way they're sinister—but beautiful."

These are 4 of my favourite looks that i love the most (Before salivation kicks in and you begin to admire, please be aware that the shoes are not going to go into production- I was very disappointed to find this out as they are amazing*):


What i love the most about it apart from the bold and harsh in your face print, which i love (almost as much as i love the SS09 Christopher Kane Gorilla image t-shirt and tops), is the deep mustard-y gold colour that runs through the prints. Very in your face, very "look at me" which i love! Such a harsh print but so feminine, need to add this to my list of things i need!

*On the plus side about the shoes, a little birdie tells me also that this cloud print will be the next in the new Christopher Kane T-shirt collection soon to drop in Topshop in September*

(Quotes from Sarah Mower review on Style.com)

Behind the scenes: Burberry's Emma Watson Campaign

Now i am sure this is no new news to most of you reading this and you have all seen the amazing pictures of Hermione Granger aka Emma Watson of Harry Potter fame. I think this is one of my favourite Burberry campaigns yet, followed closely by the Agyness Deyn campaign of a few seasons past. At just 18, she exudes a youthful sophistication in all the pictures and holds her own well, dominating the pictures with her beauty. I do find it a little weird been a fan of someone 5 years my junior, but i do think she is brilliant, and deserves this. Emma was joined by an all British cast for this campaign. I am sure you would have seen the pictures in several places but here are some behind the scene pictures from the shoot. Shot by Mario Testino with creative director Christopher Bailey on hand on location in Westminster, i think you will agree, thought the AW09 collection was not as exciting as past Prorsum collections, this campaign is certainly beautiful.
Click images to enlarge

Crap blogger

I am so so so sorry! Talk about crap blogger! Sorry for the lame blog posting, it has been 10 days since my last blog post. I am so sorry. But i have been so goddam busy. I finished my first Video shoot for Buckstyle yesterday. It went amazingly, watch this space for snippets from the shoot. I shot with brilliant film maker James Yeoman and shot YSL, Prada, Hugo by Hugo boss and Aexander Mc Queen to name a few! It is terribly exciting!
Right i have got so much to Post on so here goes!

JEROEN VAN TUYL'S URBAN WARRIOR

My recent article in Dazed Digital about dutch designer Jeroen Van Tuyl...

In his 9th year and with an anthology of collections under his belt, Rotterdam based Jeroen Van Tuyl has blurred his usual architectural approach to menswear fashion in his SS09 and more recently AW09 collections for a more melodious and romantic course. A rookie in the ranks of designers showing at Paris fashion week, Van Tuyl has forged a steady rise to his current status, beginning at fashion fairs, then showroom appointments and finally a catwalk debut at Paris fashion week last season. Mirroring some of the unshakable big guns of the fashion industry, he has released his own sneaker collection and has furniture and shoe collaborations on the horizon.

Familiar for his use of classic fabrics mixed with modern tailoring, his more recent collections have shown a break from his usual rigid and architectural influences into a more softer and fluid style. The geometric and sharp angle style from the first collection are still somewhat recognisable in this  most recent collections showing a manly silhouette which one could describe as 'urban warrior', yet the detail and craftsmanship reveal a more sensitive side.
 
Celia Loves: What inspires your sagacious style of menswear design? 

Jeroen Van Tuyl: I like experimenting with the pattern construction, fit, fabric and making. I find my inspiration in art, for example futurism, music, architecture, people on the street.
 
CL: Your more recent collections have taken a more romantic course, what was your inspiration and ideas behind this?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I was inspired by the Bengal poet Rabindranth Tagore (SS09); I liked his way of seeing a more harmonic connection between the west and the east in terms of cultures, religions and philosophies.
CL: What was the response to your recent show at Paris?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: It was a tough job to put the collection together in such a short time, but I enjoyed it when it was done and people liked it! I really liked the show venue, it was an old factory old fashioned elevators.
CL: How do you find designing in Rotterdam? Are you inspired by things around you or do you use other cities as inspiration?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I like the dynamic of Rotterdam, we have about 170 nationalities, which give a lot of different influences. Besides this, the architecture is great and there are more great buildings being built all the time. This attracts a lot of creative people, which is great.
 
CL: What would be your specific kind of guy who you target to buy and wear your clothes?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: It is for a guy who has a great sense and appreciation for fabrics and a good eye for details who likes timeless garments; it is for a guy who is always ready for a new challenge.

CL: Do you have any ideas in mind for upcoming collaborations?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I am collaborating with a Rotterdam based architect and currently we are researching to define a new kind of furniture. As well as that, I am also doing a collaboration with a Dutch shoe brand QUICK,  to be called Q by Jeroen van Tuyl.

 CL: Have you had a favourite collection to work on so far? And why?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: I really like the Tagore S/S 2009 collection because of it’s fluidness and softness which worked very well for me.
 
CL: I noticed a few jewellery pieces in the ss09. Is there a jewellery range coming up for your brand?
Jeroen Van Tuyl: We made this summer flower chain at my studio. For the A/W 09/10 I collaborated with French jewellery designer Romuald Lamy and we are going to continue working together.

London Gem: Hannah Martin

Interview and report by me, and written for Dazed Digital...

At just 27 years of age it is almost impossible not to raise your eyebrows at the career Hannah Martin has forged for herself so early on. Since graduating from Central St Martins in jewellery design, this irrepressible talent has gone on to work for Cartier, Givenchy and Tag Heuer, as well as collaborations with Jean Pierre Braganza. Retail destination Matches has picked-up her current collection while her own, recently launched, online store also a roaring success.

In her work, Martin uses only the best materials and all her jewellery is handcrafted by experienced jewellery makers in Hatton Garden, and from where she has found some of her most loyal followers. Most pieces scream hedonism, rock and roll and punk, but it is Hannah’s unique approach to design that makes her creations full of assertive and romantic expression. A stalwart designer and a great personality, I rack the brain of a real London gem:

Celia Loves: What inspires you at the start of a collection…Do you have a muse? Hannah Martin: I tend to create myself a muse – a kind of beautiful seductive Frankenstein’s monster, out of all the things and people that are turning me on at the time. I invent stories around my muse, they become the narrative of my work – and I design for them. I create myself a whole sensory world to get immersed in, and the collection springs from this.

CL: Where did the idea come to blend raw graphic shapes and objects with normally classical materials? Hannah Martin: It’s hard to say exactly where and how this came about; I guess just in my fascination with the history of the industry I work in, but also my frustrations with its ‘stuffiness’ and traditionalism. Jewellery is a beautiful medium of personal expression – both for the wearer and the creator – but it always seems to me to lack something – a bit of sex, and a bit of rock n roll. I have a very specific taste and vision that I want to create – and I think combining that with the traditions of the jewellery world creates something pretty new. A lot of people find it pretty confusing.

CL: How do you feel being a relatively new designer in the fashion industry, but with such a growing high profile? Hannah Martin: This is a difficult one – as a new and small brand it is really difficult to make your voice heard, and to get people to see what you are doing. It often feels like an exhausting up hill struggle – especially battling against brands with money and backing and advertising! But it is great to be starting to be noticed, and I hope that the profile I’m building will grow gradually, and strongly, to become something with longevity and authenticity. I feel I’m at the beginning of an exciting journey.

CL: What made you decide to design men's jewellery? Hannah Martin: It really grew out of my fascination with gender, masculinity and where gender lines become blurred within our society. It is here at the border between genders that my excitement started – where things are undefined, and unrestricted. I was in the midst of writing my thesis on masculinity at St Martins, when I spent some time in Paris at Cartier. It was here that everything met and the idea for the brand came to me. I was spending my days designing these incredible pieces of fine jewellery for women, and my nights hanging out with friends in Paris watching beautiful boys play rock n’roll in grimy bars. It suddenly seemed clear to me that I should combine the two parts of my life. Women are drawn to the pieces because of the sense of strength in them, and I also think the idea that it is something slightly naughty! The idea of wearing something of a man’s, as a woman, is innately sexy.

CL: What has been your favourite project/collaboration to work on so far? Hannah Martin: The project I did for Swarovski Runway Rocks is definitely up there! Swarovski were a great collaborator to work with – basically they give you financial backing, as much product as you need and let you run wild! There are no boundaries – they just want you to be as creative as possible! It’s not often you get paid to do a job like that. The piece was inspired by the ‘30’s fetish photographer John Willie, and made from over 20,000 Swarovski Pearls!

CL: How many of each piece do you make? Are they limited pieces? Hannah Martin: All the pieces I make are limited edition – some I will literally make 5 or 10, others I will make 500. But never more than 500. They are all totally handmade – by true craftsmen, mainly on Hatton Garden (my studio is a stones throw away which makes things very easy). I feel that making something such as this on a mass market level would somehow destroy the spirit. I think its amazing to be able to think that the thing that you own – only another 20 people in the whole world own it too.

CL: Skype personal shop- What a brilliant idea. Why have you done this? Hannah Martin: Thanks! When we were developing the concept of the online store the one thing that really bothered me was the fear of losing the personal interaction I have with my clients, and it becoming a cold, person-less process. I think buying jewellery cannot be about this – jewellery has a soul, a story and history waiting to happen. Whenever I work with clients on bespoke pieces or even just on private sales from the collections, I feel I learn a little bit about their characters and that helps me make something perfect for them. I wanted that service to be available wherever you were in the world – that’s where the Skype thing comes in.
CL: Do you have a following of fans and regular clients? Hannah Martin: I do have some really loyal clients and followers; many have been so supportive from the very beginning. I have found that people will come back again and again once they have bought one thing – which is a great compliment! I like building a relationship with clients – it’s the best way to learn about your own business as well, what people like or don’t like, and what makes them return.

CL: What is next in line for Hannah Martin…? Hannah Martin: The focus at the moment is to try to hit more international markets. I’m also beginning to seriously seek out investment – to take things to a whole new level.
I am at the beginnings of planning a couple of new ventures – one in leather goods with incredible hard-wear, and one into a highly exclusive, exceedingly mysterious erotic line that only a few people will have access too, inspired by some pieces I worked on for Coco De Mer.